Cabo San Lucas

The Tip of Baja Surprised Us

We thought we knew what to expect from Cabo San Lucas. Spring break crowds. Timeshare salespeople. Senor Frog’s. Every American with a passport has a Cabo story, and most of them involve too many tequila shots and a sunburn. We’d driven the entire Baja peninsula — Tijuana, Ensenada, Valle de Guadalupe, the desert stretches through Guerrero Negro and Loreto — but we’d been avoiding the southern tip for years because it sounded like everything we don’t look for in a travel destination.

We were wrong. Not completely wrong — the spring break madness is real, and the marina area on a Saturday night can feel like a college campus relocated to the beach. But the Cabo we discovered on our first trip, and the one we’ve returned to three times since, is a place of dramatic natural beauty, world-class fishing, surprisingly excellent food beyond the tourist traps, and a desert-meets-ocean landscape that exists nowhere else on the Baja peninsula.

Standing at Land’s End, where the Pacific Ocean collides with the Sea of Cortez beneath the towering stone arch of El Arco, we understood why this place draws three million visitors a year. The water is absurdly blue. Humpback whales breach in the distance during winter months. Pelicans dive-bomb sardine schools along the cliffs. Jenice turned to us and said what we were both thinking: “Why did we wait so long?”

The trick to Cabo, we’ve learned, is timing and geography. Visit between October and May, skip the spring break window in March, and venture beyond the marina strip. San Jose del Cabo — twenty minutes east along the Tourist Corridor — has a colonial downtown with art galleries, family-run restaurants, and zero nightclub energy. The beaches between the two towns are some of the most beautiful in Mexico. And the fishing, whale watching, and snorkeling are genuinely world-class, not just marketing copy on a resort brochure.

What Makes Cabo San Lucas Different?

Geography made Cabo inevitable. The town sits at the very bottom of the Baja peninsula, where 800 miles of desert and mountain finally surrender to the ocean. The Pacific crashes against the western shore while the calm, warm Sea of Cortez laps at the eastern beaches. That collision creates a marine ecosystem unlike anywhere else on Mexico’s coast — marlin, wahoo, dorado, and tuna fill the offshore waters, making Cabo the sport fishing capital of the world. Gray whales migrate through the corridor every winter. Whale sharks feed in the shallows near La Paz, an hour north.

Most resort towns are built on beaches. Cabo is built on geology. El Arco — the stone arch at Land’s End — is a natural cathedral carved by waves over millennia, and it anchors the entire visual identity of the destination. Lover’s Beach, accessible only by water taxi, sits in a cove between the two oceans. The rock formations along the coast look like something from another planet, all wind-sculpted sandstone in ochre and rust tones against ridiculous blue water.

The food scene has quietly improved over the past decade. Yes, the marina strip is still dominated by chain restaurants and tourist-priced nachos. But move a few blocks inland and you find family-owned taquerias where fishermen bring the morning’s catch directly to the kitchen, farm-to-table restaurants where chefs work with ingredients grown in the Cape Region’s micro-climate, and mezcal bars where the selection rivals anything in Oaxaca. Cabo’s culinary identity is finally catching up to its natural one.

Where to Eat in Cabo San Lucas

The key to eating well in Cabo is getting away from the marina. The waterfront restaurants charge resort prices for average food. Walk ten minutes inland, or drive to San Jose del Cabo, and the quality jumps while the prices drop.

Los Tres Gallos

Jenice’s favorite restaurant in Cabo, and the place that changed our opinion about food at the southern tip. Hidden on a residential street behind a hand-painted sign, this courtyard restaurant serves traditional Mexican dishes made from scratch — mole negro that takes three days to prepare, chiles rellenos stuffed with picadillo, handmade tortillas pressed to order. The courtyard is strung with lights, mariachi bands play on weekends, and the whole experience feels like dinner at someone’s home. Entrees run 180-350 MXN ($10-20 USD) per person. Cash only. Arrive by 6pm or expect a wait.

Tacos Gardenias

Our street taco headquarters in Cabo. A no-frills stand on Calle Hidalgo with plastic chairs and a crowd of locals that tells you everything you need to know. Their marlin tacos — smoked, shredded, and folded into fresh corn tortillas with pico de gallo — are the best we’ve had in Baja Sur. Al pastor carved from the trompo is excellent too. Tacos cost 30-50 MXN ($2-3 USD) each. We order six each and a couple of aguas frescas.

Manta at The Cape

When we want a splurge dinner, this is it. Chef Enrique Olvera (of Pujol fame in Mexico City) oversees a menu that blends Japanese technique with Mexican ingredients — think yellowtail crudo with habanero oil, grilled octopus with mole, and wagyu tacos that justify the price tag. Dinner runs 600-1,200 MXN ($35-70 USD) per person before drinks. The dining room overlooks El Arco, and sunset reservations are worth booking two weeks ahead.

La Lupita Taco & Mezcal

A lively spot on the edge of the marina that manages to be fun without being obnoxious. The menu focuses on creative tacos — duck carnitas, lobster with chipotle crema, pork belly with pickled pineapple — paired with an extensive mezcal list. Tacos run 80-150 MXN ($5-9 USD) each, and mezcal flights cost 250-400 MXN ($14-23 USD). We usually end up here on our first night in town.

Flora Farms

Twenty minutes north in the foothills above San Jose del Cabo, this organic farm and restaurant complex has become one of the most talked-about dining experiences in Los Cabos. Dinner is served outdoors among the gardens where the ingredients are grown. Wood-fired pizza, farm salads, grass-fed beef — everything tastes like it was picked an hour ago because it was. Dinner costs 400-700 MXN ($23-40 USD) per person. Reservations are essential, especially during high season (December-April).

Mariscos Las Tres Islas

For seafood without the tourist markup. This open-air spot serves ceviches, aguachile, grilled shrimp, and whole fried fish at prices that locals actually pay. The aguachile rojo hits with serious heat and bright lime — Jenice orders it every time. Plates run 120-250 MXN ($7-14 USD). It’s on the inland side of town, away from the marina, which is exactly why it’s good.

Where to Stay in Cabo San Lucas

Cabo’s hotel scene runs the full spectrum from backpacker hostels to ultra-luxury resorts. The Tourist Corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo has the most dramatic beachfront properties, while downtown Cabo puts you within walking distance of restaurants and nightlife.

Hacienda Beach Club & Residences (Mid-Range)

Our go-to. Location is the selling point — right on Medano Beach, walking distance to the marina, restaurants, and downtown. Rooms are clean and comfortable without the mega-resort feel. The pool area is pleasant and the beach access is excellent. Rates run 3,200-6,200 MXN ($180-350 USD) per night depending on season. Book directly for the best rate. We’ve stayed here three times and keep coming back because we can walk everywhere.

The Cape, a Thompson Hotel (Luxury)

The design hotel of Cabo. Perched on the rocks at Land’s End with a rooftop pool that overlooks El Arco, this is where architecture and location converge spectacularly. Rooms are sleek and modern with floor-to-ceiling ocean views. Manta restaurant is downstairs. Rates run 7,000-12,400 MXN ($400-700 USD) per night. We stayed here for a birthday weekend and the views alone were worth the splurge.

Baja Backpackers (Budget)

A clean, well-run hostel on the inland side of downtown. Dorm beds run 500-700 MXN ($28-40 USD) per night, private rooms 1,200-1,800 MXN ($68-100 USD). The common area is social without being chaotic, and the staff books activities at discounted rates. Walking distance to Medano Beach and downtown restaurants.

Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal (Ultra-Luxury)

If money is no object, the Pedregal is one of the finest hotels in Mexico. Tunneled into the rock on the Pacific side, every room has a private plunge pool and ocean view. Rates start at 10,600 MXN ($600 USD) per night and climb steeply. We haven’t stayed here, but we’ve walked the property and eaten at their restaurant — the setting is extraordinary.

What to Do in Cabo San Lucas

El Arco and Land’s End

The iconic stone arch at the tip of the peninsula is Cabo’s defining landmark. Water taxis from Medano Beach cost 200-350 MXN ($11-20 USD) round trip and drop you at Lover’s Beach, a sand cove between the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez. The arch itself is only accessible by water — get a glass-bottom boat for 250-400 MXN ($14-23 USD) that passes through the arch and points out sea lions along the rocks. We’ve done this three times and the geology still impresses us.

Sport Fishing

Cabo bills itself as the marlin capital of the world, and the fishing backs up the claim. Striped marlin, blue marlin, yellowfin tuna, dorado, and wahoo run these waters year-round. Shared pangas (small boats, 4-6 hours) cost 3,500-5,300 MXN ($200-300 USD) per boat. Private sport fishing charters on larger boats run 6,200-17,700 MXN ($350-1,000 USD) depending on boat size and duration. We booked a shared charter through Pisces Sportfishing and landed a 180-pound striped marlin on our second trip.

Whale Watching (December through April)

Gray whales and humpback whales migrate through the waters off Cabo every winter. Boat tours depart from the marina daily and cost 1,500-2,100 MXN ($85-120 USD) per person for a 2-3 hour trip. Smaller boats (12-15 passengers) offer better viewing than the large catamarans. We saw a mother gray whale and her calf surface within thirty feet of our boat — one of the most memorable wildlife encounters of our lives.

Snorkeling at Chileno Bay

The best snorkeling in the Los Cabos area. Chileno Bay is a protected marine sanctuary with calm, clear water and abundant tropical fish. Entry is free — it’s a public beach. Snorkel gear rental costs 200-350 MXN ($11-20 USD) from vendors on the beach. We saw parrotfish, angelfish, pufferfish, and a sea turtle on a single morning session. Arrive before 10am for the clearest water and best parking.

San Jose del Cabo Art Walk

Every Thursday evening from November through June, the gallery district in San Jose del Cabo opens its doors for a free art walk. Local and international artists show work in a dozen galleries along the cobblestone streets of the historic center. We combine this with dinner at one of San Jose’s excellent restaurants — it’s a completely different vibe from Cabo San Lucas and worth the twenty-minute drive.

Getting Beyond the Strip

The most rewarding Cabo experiences happen away from the marina. Rent a car for a day and drive the Tourist Corridor — the 20-mile stretch of Highway 1 between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo — stopping at beaches along the way. Playa Santa Maria and Chileno Bay are both gorgeous, swimmable, and free. Continue to San Jose del Cabo’s downtown for lunch at a family restaurant in the colonial center, where the pace slows down and the prices reflect a Mexican economy instead of a resort one.

North of San Jose, the East Cape is one of Baja’s last undeveloped coastlines. The road to Cabo Pulmo — a national marine park with some of the best diving and snorkeling in Mexico — is partially paved and takes about two hours. We haven’t made the drive yet, but it’s at the top of our list for the next trip.

The desert interior is another world entirely. The Sierra de la Laguna mountains rise behind San Jose del Cabo, and guided hiking trips take you through canyons with waterfalls and natural pools. Tours cost 1,800-3,500 MXN ($100-200 USD) per person. Cabo isn’t just a beach destination — the landscape behind the coast is as dramatic as anything on the peninsula.

The Two Cabos

Understanding Los Cabos means understanding that you’re really visiting two different places. Cabo San Lucas is the loud one — marina nightlife, beach clubs, sport fishing fleets, and an energy that runs from midday to 2am. San Jose del Cabo is the quiet one — colonial architecture, gallery district, organic farms, and an energy that peaks over long dinners and sunset walks.

We split our time between both. Mornings at Chileno Bay or on a fishing boat out of the Cabo marina. Afternoons exploring San Jose’s downtown or Flora Farms. Evenings at a taco stand or a mezcal bar. The two towns complement each other perfectly, and the twenty-minute drive between them means you don’t have to choose.