Ensenada

The Drive Down the Coast Changed Everything

Our first trip to Ensenada was supposed to be a quick day trip — drive down, eat some fish tacos, drive back. That was eight years ago. We ended up staying two nights, and Ensenada has been our favorite Baja city ever since. There’s something about driving the toll road south from Tijuana, watching the coastline unfold through Rosarito and beyond, until the road curves around Bahia de Todos Santos and Ensenada’s harbor comes into view. Fishing boats, a cruise ship terminal, mountains rising behind the city. It feels like arriving somewhere real.

Ensenada is a working port city of about 500,000 people, and that’s precisely what makes it interesting. This isn’t a resort town built for tourists — it’s a place where fishing boats offload the day’s catch at the same market where you’ll eat lunch. Where the oldest cantina in the Californias still pours tequila alongside craft cocktails. Where the road to Mexico’s most exciting wine region begins at the city’s eastern edge.

Jenice says Ensenada reminds her of visiting her tia’s neighborhood in Mexicali — the markets are loud and crowded, the seafood is impossibly fresh, and everyone seems to know each other. We’ve spent long weekends here that feel like mini vacations, splitting time between the waterfront, wine country, and the kind of meals that make us reconsider everything we thought we knew about Mexican seafood.

What Makes Ensenada Different?

Ensenada is the hub of Baja. Every road leads here. It’s where the coast, wine country, desert, and deep-water Pacific converge in one walkable city. For us, it’s the most complete destination in northern Baja — you can eat world-class fish tacos for $2, tour a winery for $15, watch gray whales breach from a boat, and drink at a cantina that’s been open since 1892, all in the same weekend.

The fish taco tradition here predates the trend by decades. Ensenada-style fish tacos — battered and fried white fish on a corn tortilla with shredded cabbage, crema, and salsa — became the template that every California taco shop copies. Eating one at the source, with the fish pulled from the Pacific that morning, is a reminder that the original is always better.

Then there’s the wine. Valle de Guadalupe, thirty minutes inland, has transformed Ensenada from a port town into a gateway for food-and-wine tourism. The city itself now has tasting rooms, wine bars, and restaurants that rival what you’ll find in the valley. We often start a wine weekend in Ensenada, taste at a couple of city spots, then head inland the next morning.

Where to Eat in Ensenada

Mercado Negro (Fish Market)

This is ground zero for Ensenada fish tacos. A covered market on the waterfront where a dozen stalls compete for your business, each one frying fish and building tacos to order. We walk the row, compare, and usually end up at the stand with the longest local line. Tacos cost 40-60 MXN ($2-3 USD) each. We order four to six per person. Add a tostada de ceviche for 50-70 MXN ($3-4 USD). This is the single best food value in all of Baja.

Mariscos La Guerrerense

Sabina Bandera’s legendary street cart was recognized by Anthony Bourdain and later earned a spot on the Michelin Guide. The specialty is tostadas de erizo (sea urchin) and ceviche combinations that layer flavors we didn’t know existed. A loaded tostada runs 80-150 MXN ($5-8 USD). The cart is on Avenida Miramar — look for the crowd.

Hussong’s Cantina

The oldest cantina in the Californias, open since 1892. This is where the margarita was (disputedly) invented, and walking through the swinging doors feels like stepping into a different era. Sawdust on the floor, mariachi bands, and strong drinks. Beers cost 50-80 MXN ($3-5 USD), margaritas 100-150 MXN ($6-8 USD). The food menu is basic — come for the atmosphere. Full evening out runs 150-300 MXN ($8-17 USD) per person.

Muelle Tres

Upscale seafood with harbor views. This is where we go when we want a proper sit-down dinner in Ensenada. The shrimp dishes and fresh catch of the day are consistently excellent. Dinner runs 280-500 MXN ($16-28 USD) per person. Reservations recommended on weekends.

Tacos Castillo

Locals will fight you over the best street taco spot in Ensenada, but Tacos Castillo consistently wins. Their carne asada tacos on fresh corn tortillas are simple and perfect. Two or three tacos with a Jarritos soda costs 80-130 MXN ($5-7 USD). Look for the green stand near the Malecon.

La Cocina de Dona Esthela

A short drive from the city center, Dona Esthela’s home-style cooking draws weekend crowds willing to wait. Her machaca con huevos and handmade flour tortillas are legendary. Breakfast for two costs 200-350 MXN ($11-20 USD). Get there early — the line forms by 9am.

Where to Stay in Ensenada

Hotel Coral & Marina (Upscale)

Ensenada’s most established upscale hotel, with a marina, multiple pools, a spa, and ocean views. Rooms are modern and well-maintained. Rates run 2,200-3,500 MXN ($125-200 USD) per night. We stay here when we want the full-service experience — it’s also the closest nice hotel to the road heading up to Valle de Guadalupe.

Corona Hotel & Spa (Mid-Range)

A charming boutique-style hotel right in the center of town, walking distance to everything. The rooms are clean and comfortable, and the rooftop has city views. At 1,200-1,800 MXN ($68-100 USD) per night, it’s the sweet spot between value and quality.

Posada El Rey Sol (Mid-Range)

Connected to the famous El Rey Sol French-Mexican restaurant (open since 1947), this hotel offers character that chain hotels can’t match. Rooms are decorated with local art and the courtyard is peaceful. Rates are 1,600-2,400 MXN ($90-135 USD) per night.

What to Do in Ensenada

La Bufadora

Thirty minutes south of the city, this marine blowhole launches ocean water up to 100 feet into the air. The road down to the viewing area is lined with market stalls selling churros, tacos, and souvenirs. Parking is 50 MXN ($3 USD). The blowhole itself is free. We time our visits for high tide when the spray is most dramatic.

Whale Watching (December through April)

Gray whales migrate from Alaska to Baja’s lagoons every winter, and Ensenada is one of the best places to spot them. Boat tours depart from the harbor and cost 800-1,200 MXN ($45-68 USD) per person for a 2-3 hour trip. We’ve seen mothers with calves swimming within fifty feet of our boat. Book with Sergio’s Sportfishing or another established operator.

Walk the Malecon

Ensenada’s waterfront boardwalk stretches along the harbor with views of fishing boats, the bay, and the mountains. Street performers, food carts, and benches make it a perfect sunset stroll. Free, and one of our favorite things to do in the city.

Day Trip to Valle de Guadalupe

Wine country is thirty minutes east on a well-paved road. We always combine an Ensenada overnight with a day in the valley. See our full Valle de Guadalupe guide for details.

Hussong’s and the Cantina Strip

First Street downtown has a concentration of bars and cantinas that come alive on weekend nights. Start at Hussong’s, work your way down the strip. This is authentic Baja nightlife — loud, friendly, and surprisingly safe.