We Almost Drove Right Through Loreto — That Would Have Been a Mistake
The first time we came to Loreto, it was an accident. We were driving Highway 1 from Mulege toward La Paz, watching the desert blur past the windows, when we pulled off for gas and groceries. The town looked small — a few blocks of low buildings, a church tower, a strip of blue water visible between the rooftops. We figured we’d stretch our legs for an hour and keep moving. That was three years ago. We stayed four days, came back the following year, and now we plan entire Baja trips around Loreto.
What stopped us was the malecon. We walked from the gas station toward the water and hit a palm-lined boardwalk overlooking the Sea of Cortez, the water so blue and so calm it looked like a lake. Pelicans were diving into the shallows. A fisherman was cleaning his catch on the dock. Behind us, the facade of Mission Nuestra Senora de Loreto — the oldest mission in both Californias, built in 1697 — rose above the rooftops. The town had fewer than 20,000 people, no chain hotels visible, no cruise ship terminal, no spring break energy. It felt like a Baja that most tourists never find.
Jenice fell for Loreto immediately. She said it reminded her of visiting small towns in Pampanga growing up — places where everyone knows the fishmonger, where the church is the center of everything, where the pace of life runs on its own clock. We sat on the malecon eating fish tacos from a cart, watching the sun drop behind Isla del Carmen, and neither of us wanted to get back in the car.
Loreto is the town that serious Baja travelers obsess over. It’s the one they mention when you ask where they’d go if they could only pick one place on the peninsula. And after three trips, we understand why.
What Makes Loreto Different?
Loreto is old. Not “old for Baja” old — old in the way that reshapes how you think about the entire region. When Jesuit missionary Juan Maria de Salvatierra founded his mission here in 1697, this was the first permanent European settlement in the Californias. Every mission from here to San Francisco traces its lineage back to this town. The inscription on the mission’s facade reads “Head and Mother of the Missions of Lower and Upper California.” That’s not marketing — it’s historical fact.
But history alone doesn’t explain why people keep coming back. The real draw is Loreto Bay National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site covering five islands and over 2,000 square kilometers of the Sea of Cortez. Jacques Cousteau called this body of water “the world’s aquarium,” and once you’ve snorkeled off Isla Coronado — swimming with sea lions that are more curious than afraid, watching parrotfish graze on coral while manta rays glide past below — you understand that Cousteau wasn’t exaggerating.
Loreto sits at the intersection of desert and sea in a way that feels almost surreal. The Sierra de la Giganta mountains rise sharply behind the town, their red and ochre cliffs glowing at sunset. In front, the Sea of Cortez stretches east toward the Mexican mainland, impossibly blue and teeming with marine life. The town itself is the connector — a quiet, walkable grid of streets where the biggest decision you’ll make is whether to go snorkeling or fishing tomorrow.
This is the anti-Cabo. There are no nightclubs, no timeshare hawkers, no lines of taxis waiting to overcharge tourists. Loreto is what Cabo San Lucas was fifty years ago, before the developers arrived. Some people worry it won’t stay this way. We hope they’re wrong.
The World's Aquarium
The Sea of Cortez holds more marine species than almost any body of water on Earth — and Loreto Bay National Park puts you right in the middle of it.
Where to Eat in Loreto
Loreto’s food scene is small and honest. There are no celebrity chef restaurants, no Instagram-driven tasting menus. What you’ll find is fresh seafood pulled from the Sea of Cortez that morning, hand-pressed tortillas, and family recipes that have been passed down for generations. Portions are generous, prices are fair, and the best meal in town might come from a cart with plastic chairs.
El Zopilote Brewing Co.
Loreto’s craft brewery surprised us. A small operation on the edge of town with a shaded patio, house-brewed IPAs and lagers, and a food menu that goes way beyond bar snacks. Their fish tacos — grilled, not fried — use whatever was caught that morning, and the carne asada nachos are piled high enough for two. Beers run 80-140 MXN ($5-8 USD) each, and a full meal with drinks for two costs 400-700 MXN ($22-39 USD). We come here on our first night in Loreto every trip.
Mi Loreto
A local favorite with no pretense. The seafood cocktails here are massive — shrimp, octopus, and ceviche loaded into a glass with avocado, lime, and tomato. Jenice orders the chocolate clams (almejas chocolatas), a Sea of Cortez specialty you won’t find anywhere else. Meals run 150-280 MXN ($8-16 USD) per person. The outdoor seating area fills up at lunch — get there by noon.
Orlando’s Mexican Cocina
The closest thing Loreto has to upscale dining, and it delivers. Chef Orlando sources everything locally and the menu changes with what’s available. The shrimp mojo de ajo (garlic shrimp) is consistently outstanding, and the margaritas are properly made with fresh lime. Dinner for two costs 500-900 MXN ($28-50 USD) with drinks. Reservations recommended on weekends during high season.
Asadero Super Burro
A no-frills taco stand that draws a line of locals every evening. The carne asada is grilled over mesquite, chopped to order, and served on fresh flour tortillas with grilled onions, guacamole, and multiple salsas. Tacos cost 35-55 MXN ($2-3 USD) each. We order five or six and regret nothing. Open evenings only — look for the smoke and follow the crowd.
Mediterraneo
Italian-meets-Mexican in a courtyard setting near the mission. The owner is Italian and the pasta is handmade, but the menu leans heavily on local seafood — clam linguine, shrimp risotto, octopus salad. It shouldn’t work, but it does. Dinner runs 300-500 MXN ($17-28 USD) per person. The courtyard with string lights and bougainvillea is the most romantic dinner setting in Loreto.
Mita Gourmet
A small breakfast and lunch spot that locals guard jealously. Their chilaquiles are some of the best we’ve had in Baja — perfectly crispy tortilla chips, rich salsa roja, crema, queso fresco, and a fried egg on top. Breakfast for two with fresh juice costs 200-350 MXN ($11-20 USD). Closed by mid-afternoon.
Where to Stay in Loreto
Loreto’s hotel scene reflects the town’s character — nothing flashy, but everything you need. The best properties lean into the colonial architecture and Sea of Cortez views rather than trying to compete with Cabo’s mega-resorts.
Hotel & Suites La Mision (Mid-Range)
Our go-to in Loreto. A colonial-style hotel on the main plaza, steps from the mission and two blocks from the malecon. Rooms are clean and comfortable with tile floors, arched doorways, and a central courtyard with a small pool. The location is unbeatable — we walk to everything. Rates run 1,800-2,800 MXN ($100-160 USD) per night. The staff remembers returning guests, which says everything about the kind of place this is.
Coco Cabanas (Budget)
Simple palapa-roofed cabanas in a garden setting, a short walk from downtown. The vibe is backpacker-chic — hammocks, a communal kitchen, and a friendly owner who shares local tips freely. Rooms cost 700-1,200 MXN ($39-68 USD) per night. No frills, but clean and charming. This is where we stayed our first accidental visit, and we still recommend it to friends.
Villa del Palmar at the Islands of Loreto (Luxury)
If you want the full resort experience, this is the only game in town — and it’s excellent. Situated on Danzante Bay south of town with its own beach, multiple pools, a spa, two restaurants, and a TPC golf course carved into the desert. Rooms start at 4,500 MXN ($250 USD) per night and climb from there. The setting — mountains behind, Sea of Cortez in front — is genuinely spectacular. We splurged here for our anniversary and it was worth every peso.
Posada de las Flores (Mid-Range to Upscale)
A boutique hotel right on the main plaza with a rooftop terrace offering panoramic views of the town, the Sea of Cortez, and the Sierra de la Giganta. Rooms are decorated with Mexican folk art and tilework. Rates run 2,200-3,800 MXN ($125-215 USD) per night. The rooftop sunset view alone justifies the price.
Head and Mother of the Missions
Founded in 1697, Mission Nuestra Señora de Loreto launched the chain of missions that would stretch all the way to San Francisco — and it still holds Mass every Sunday.
What to Do in Loreto
Snorkeling at Isla Coronado
The single best activity in Loreto. A boat ride across the glassy Sea of Cortez brings you to Isla Coronado, where the snorkeling is world-class. We slipped into water so clear we could see the sandy bottom thirty feet below, and within minutes we were surrounded — a sea lion pup circling us out of sheer curiosity, schools of tropical fish in electric blues and yellows, and a spotted eagle ray cruising past like it had somewhere important to be. The sea lion colonies on the island’s rocky shores are mesmerizing to watch from the water. Full-day tours including lunch cost 1,200-1,800 MXN ($68-100 USD) per person. Book through your hotel or one of the operators on the malecon.
Mission Nuestra Senora de Loreto
You can’t come to Loreto and skip the mission. Founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionary Juan Maria de Salvatierra, this is the oldest permanent mission in both Baja and Alta California. The stone facade has survived earthquakes, hurricanes, and three centuries of desert sun. Inside, the original altarpiece is gilded and ornate — a reminder of the wealth and ambition behind the mission system. The adjacent Museo de las Misiones (50 MXN / $3 USD admission) houses colonial artifacts, religious art, and exhibits on the indigenous Cochimi people who lived here long before the Jesuits arrived. Jenice spent an hour in the museum while Scott walked the mission grounds. Both experiences are worth the time.
Sport Fishing
Loreto is one of the premier sport fishing destinations in the Sea of Cortez. The waters here hold dorado (mahi-mahi), yellowtail, roosterfish, marlin, and snapper depending on the season. A full-day panga trip for two costs 5,500-9,000 MXN ($310-500 USD) and includes gear, bait, and a captain who knows every reef and drop-off. Several restaurants in town will cook your catch for a small fee — there’s nothing quite like eating a fish you pulled from the sea four hours earlier. Arturo’s Sportfishing and Dolphin Dive Center are reliable operators.
Walk the Malecon and Downtown
Loreto’s malecon is short — maybe half a mile — but it’s one of the most pleasant waterfront walks in Baja. Palm trees, benches, pelicans roosting on the pier, and views across the Sea of Cortez to the islands. Behind the malecon, the town center is a grid of quiet streets with the mission plaza at its heart. The main plaza comes alive in the evenings — families gathering, kids running, vendors selling elotes and paletas. We’ve spent entire evenings on a plaza bench with ice cream, watching Loreto be itself.
Isla del Carmen and Isla Danzante
Beyond Isla Coronado, the national park protects several other islands worth exploring. Isla del Carmen is the largest, with pristine beaches, an abandoned salt mine, and excellent kayaking. Isla Danzante, closer to shore, has secluded coves and some of the park’s best snorkeling walls. Multi-island day trips cost 1,800-3,000 MXN ($100-170 USD) per person. For serious marine exploration, book a two-day kayak-camping trip to Isla del Carmen — we haven’t done this yet, but it’s at the top of our list.
Sierra de la Giganta Day Hike
The mountains behind Loreto rise dramatically from the coastal plain, and several trails lead into their red-rock canyons. The most accessible is the trail to the Tabor Canyon oasis — a two-hour round trip through desert landscape to a palm-filled canyon with freshwater pools. No entrance fee, but bring plenty of water and go early before the heat builds. The views back down toward the Sea of Cortez are stunning.
Where the Desert Meets the Sea
Loreto is the Baja you came looking for — unhurried, unspoiled, and absolutely unforgettable.
The Loreto You Won’t Find in Guidebooks
What surprised us most about Loreto is how it changes you. We arrived as road-trippers looking for a pit stop and left as people who understand why some travelers pick one town and keep returning for decades. There’s a community of American and Canadian expats who moved here permanently — not retirees hiding in gated compounds, but people who learned Spanish, joined the fishing co-op, and show up to the town fiestas. They’ll tell you Loreto is the real Baja, the one that existed before the developers discovered Cabo and the cruise ships found Ensenada.
We’re not moving to Loreto. But we understand the impulse. There’s something about standing on the malecon at dusk, the Sierra de la Giganta glowing pink behind you and the Sea of Cortez turning silver in front, that makes the frantic pace of San Diego feel optional. Jenice put it simply: “This town doesn’t need us. It’s doing fine on its own. That’s exactly why I want to keep coming back.”
The taco cart will be there next time. The sea lions at Isla Coronado will still be curious. The mission bells will ring at the same hour they’ve been ringing for 327 years. And we’ll drive down Highway 1, pull off at the same exit, and wonder again why we almost drove right through.
Scott’s Pro Tips
- Getting There: Loreto International Airport (LTO) is the easiest option — Alaska Airlines flies direct from LAX, and the airport is literally five minutes from downtown. If you're driving Highway 1 from Tijuana, it's roughly 700 miles and 11-12 hours. Gas stations can be sparse south of Guerrero Negro, so fill up at every opportunity and carry a spare 5-gallon jerry can. We break the drive into two days with an overnight in Guerrero Negro or San Ignacio.
- Best Time to Visit: October through May is ideal — daytime temperatures range from 75-85°F, the seas are calm, and snorkeling visibility is excellent. Whale watching peaks January through March. Avoid June through September unless you love 100°F+ heat and the occasional tropical storm. Fishing is excellent year-round, but dorado season (June-November) is legendary.
- Getting Around: Downtown Loreto is completely walkable — the mission, malecon, restaurants, and most hotels are within a 10-minute walk of each other. For the Villa del Palmar resort or Sierra de la Giganta hikes, you'll need a car. Local taxis charge 50-100 MXN ($3-6 USD) within town. Car rentals are available at the airport starting at 800-1,200 MXN ($45-68 USD) per day. If you're exploring beyond town, rent a car — there's no Uber in Loreto.
- Money & ATMs: Cash is king in Loreto. Many restaurants and taco stands are cash-only. There are Banorte and Bancomer ATMs on the main street near the plaza, but they occasionally run out of cash on busy weekends — withdraw what you need when you see a working machine. The bigger hotels accept credit cards. Budget 600-1,600 MXN ($35-90 USD) per person per day depending on whether you're booking boat tours.
- Safety & Health: Loreto is one of the safest towns in Mexico — we walk everywhere at all hours without concern. Drink bottled water, bring reef-safe sunscreen (it's required in the national park), and stay hydrated — the desert heat sneaks up on you. The nearest hospital is IMSS Loreto on Calle Salvatierra. For anything serious, you'd be transferred to La Paz (4.5 hours south). Pack basic first-aid supplies and any prescription medications you need.
- Packing Essentials: Reef-safe sunscreen (mandatory for the marine park), a rash guard for snorkeling, sturdy water shoes for rocky island shores, a wide-brimmed hat, and layers for cool desert evenings. Bring your own snorkel gear if you have it — rentals are available but quality varies. A windbreaker is essential for boat trips, even in warm weather. Don't forget binoculars if you're visiting during whale season.
- Local Etiquette: Loreto is a small town — greet people with "Buenos dias" or "Buenas tardes" and you'll be treated like a neighbor. Most locals speak limited English, so basic Spanish goes a long way. Tipping 10-15% is standard at sit-down restaurants. At taco stands, rounding up or leaving 10-20 MXN is appreciated. The mission is an active church — dress respectfully if you visit during services. Don't touch or chase sea lions during snorkel tours — let them come to you.